Jewels
of the Caribbean
By Howard Hall
View Howard Hall Profile
Note: I wrote the following story in 1994 just before our National
Geographic Special “Jewels of the Caribbean” was aired.
Since then, shark diving in the Bahamas has become an extremely
popular sport bringing in much greater revenues than estimated
in the article below. Also since then, the decline of fish populations
around the world due to commercial fishing has accelerated enormously.
Many of the animals we filmed in the Cayman Islands were lost to
fishing (not driven away by divers). This includes the two beautiful
manta rays that used to come to anchored boats at night at Little
Cayman. The phenomenon whereby divers seem to begin their career
diving in a pristine environment only to see major degradation
in ten years is called “Shifting Baseline Syndrome.” This
is an important concept for all lovers of wilderness. More can
be learned about Shifting Baselines at http://www.shiftingbaselines.org.
The shark came from down-current and followed the edge of the
drop-off toward the smell of bait. I waited next to a large purple tube sponge
as Stuart Cove shook the bait basket to increase the dispersion of chum. I was
surprised how quickly the first shark arrived. We hadn't been down five minutes.
The
shark was a six-foot long Caribbean reef shark. It was a bit unusual because
it had a circular mark on its right side just posterior of the
dorsal fin and
because it was worth $250,000. Ironically, no one owned this animal. In fact,
the only way to establish ownership of a $250,000 shark is to catch it with
hook and line or gill net and kill it. But unfortunately, killing
the shark causes
its value to depreciate. Dead, the shark is only worth fifty or sixty bucks.
The animal is worth $250,000 only when it's alive and free.
Stuart shook the
bait basket again and I saw another shark rise over the edge of
the drop-off. Another $250,000 fish. Soon there were eight or ten
large sharks
swimming around Stuart - several million dollars worth. The largest might have
been eight feet long and the smallest just over five feet. By some calculation,
the largest shark might have been worth more than the smallest one. Perhaps
the largest was worth $300,000 and the small one only $200,000. Certainly, it
would
be a difficult calculation to quantify the individual value of each animal
based on size or photogenics.
As the sharks gathered, the peanut gallery took
their places in a semi-circle behind Stuart. Bob Cranston held
the powerful HMI movie light, Mark
Conlin held
the light cable, Doug Perrine and Michele Hall took still photographs, and
I operated the 16mm movie camera. We were not an entirely typical sport diving
group. However, this was a typical sport dive for Stuart Cove's Resort. Typical,
that is, until one of the sharks bit Stuart.
I wasn't entirely surprised when
Stuart got bit. In fact, it seemed almost inevitable. Stuart was
reaching into the bait basket and tossing chunks
of bait to a gathering
of sharks which were swarming around him like an angry hoard of bees. Stuart
casually fed the sharks in much the same manner as an old man might feed a
flock of pigeons while sitting on a park bench. The big difference was that pigeons
are not inclined to remove and squabble over human body parts.
Although I've
had some experience diving with sharks in several oceans of the
world, my experience with Caribbean reef sharks was very limited.
Stuart,
on
the other hand, had been putting on this show for years. It was simple routine
for Stuart. Still, I was impressed. Stuart's position looked vulnerable and
dangerous to me.
Perhaps one of the sharks sensed how impressed I was. Perhaps
the shark, somehow knowing I was more experienced than the average
tourist diver,
felt a burst of
intense pride at my reaction. Perhaps the shark, inflated with its sense of
pride at being credited by a professional diver for its fearsome reputation,
and not
wanting to disappoint, decided to live up to my expectations. Or perhaps the
shark just thought Stuart's hand was a piece of fish. Whatever the inspiration,
the small $200,000 runt of a shark bit Stuart on the hand.
Stuart's reaction
was immediate and predictable. He glanced at his hand, concealed
it beneath his arm, and shrugged as if to say, "It's only
a scratch. Nothing any self-respecting Bahamian shark diver would consider significant." But
then he noticed a gushing cloud of green blood billowing from under his arm
accompanied by a moderate dose of pain, and reality set in. Stuart ascended to
the surface.
The film crew immediately followed, perhaps concerned about Stuart's condition
or perhaps worried that, hors d'oeuvrs having been served, the sharks may be
in the mood for the main course.
After a dozen or so stitches in his hand, Stuart
was good as new. I suggested he rub charcoal into the wound to produce a respectable
scar. But
before he fully
realized the commercial value of this suggestion, his hand had healed beyond
the stage when rubbing in charcoal could be done without significant increase
in pain.
The following day our film crew was back on site with divemaster,
Billy Braithwaite, replacing Stuart as guide. Soon Billy was feeding the pigeons
just as Stuart
had. I continued to be impressed. The sharks, however, seemed content to
have once demonstrated a willingness to be man-biters. No further demonstrations
were
necessary for either the sharks or us. Or perhaps the offending shark had
warned its companions of the bad taste Stuart's hand had left in its mouth.
In any case,
the following ten days proceeded without further blood letting.
It's hard
to say whether stories of Stuart's shark bite increases or decreases
the value of these sharks. I suspect their value has gone up having
validated
their nearly mythological reputation. A half dozen diving resorts on New
Providence attract sport divers to this small Bahamian island largely on the
strength of
these wonderful and spectacular shark dives. By Stuart's calculation, six
million dollars is spent in the Bahamas every year because of these sharks. Six
million
dollars! And there are only a dozen or so sharks.
The shark with the circular
spot on its side that I saw on my first dive was there every day
we dived the site. And when we returned to Nassau six
months
later for additional filming, the same shark was still there along with
his dozen or so companions. If you divide 6 million dollars by twelve sharks,
you get a
yearly value of $500,000. Then, just to be conservative, if you arbitrarily
divide that estimate by two, you still get a yearly value of $250,000 per shark!
However
you do the math, these are very valuable animals - as long as they're alive.
A long-line fisherman could catch them all in one night. Dead, each shark
loses 99.8% of its value.
Stuart and the other resort operators on New Providence
are understandably concerned that one night such a disaster might
occur. As yet the Bahamian government,
along
with most other governments around the world, has not yet realized the
relative commercial value of living marine life versus dead marine life.
In the
Cayman Islands, Sue Steere introduced us to an entire community
of valuable marine creatures. There was an enormous eagle ray that allowed divers
to approach
within feet, as it fed on mollusks concealed beneath the sand. There was
a manta ray that predictably came to feed on the swarms of plankton that gathered
under
our movie lights. There were schools of reef squid that allowed us to film
them from inches away. And there were Nassau groupers and tiger groupers that
would
enter cleaning stations and allow us to film them being cleaned at point
blank range. These animals are part of the reason that tens of thousands of tourist
divers visit the Caymans every year.
There's a Nassau grouper that lives on the wreck of the Oro Verde. He's
the first thing divers see when they hit the bottom near the wreck. And
for many
divers
who go to the Caymans, he's the biggest fish they have ever seen. One morning
Bob Cranston and I laid on the bottom near the Oro Verde for three hours
trying to film the spawning behavior of yellowhead jawfish. (The jawfish,
it turns
out, had absolutely no intention of performing sex for a movie camera).
During most
of the dive, the Nassau grouper made a home for himself right beneath my
chest as I hunched over the movie camera and looked through the lens at
a jawfish
who was not in the mood. Occasionally, I gently pushed the grouper away
concerned that he might move suddenly, resulting in a cloud of dust that
would ruin
any chance of filming the jawfish at a critical moment. But within a few
minutes,
he'd be back and I'd again find my chin resting on his forehead.
This silly
fish may be even more valuable than the sharks of New Providence. He
enhances the Cayman diving experience for thousands of divers
each month.
He's been photographed tens of thousands of times and has appeared in
dozens of diving publication around the world. How could you calculate
the value
of such an animal?
A few years ago a famous grouper lived on the wreck of the
Balboa in Georgetown Harbor. He was much larger than the Nassau
grouper that lives on
the Oro Verde,
and because of his dramatic size, he was even more valuable. During night
dives this grouper would follow divers around and occasionally snap up small
reef fish
that were exposed by the divers' lights. His presence made the wreck
of the Balboa a world class dive. He was one of the reasons I planned a film
expedition to
the Caymans.
For me, this grouper presented a unique opportunity to film
a predation sequence. Sue suggested that all I had to do was set
up my camera and lights,
and the grouper
would perform on cue. Unfortunately, I never got the chance. One night
a commercial fishing boat tied up to the Balboa mooring during a storm. While
the fishermen
waited for the wind to abate, they put their lines over the side. Within
a few minutes most of the large and extremely valuable fish, including the grouper,
were gone.
The sport diving community and government of the Cayman Islands
have done a great deal to protect the marine life and coral reefs
surrounding their
islands, setting
an example for the rest of the world. They've strategically placed moorings
around their islands to prevent anchor damage to the reef. They've started the "no
gloves" policy to encourage divers to avoid touching the coral.
And they make every attempt to educate their customers about the impact
divers have on
the environment. But while dive resorts around the world are increasingly
aware of the impact their customers have on their natural resources,
they still seem
unaware of the very much greater danger that lurks down the reef or just
over the horizon. Our oceans are being systematically strained of life
by commercial
fishing. Ask any diver who has dived any area for more than ten years.
He will list the species that were once seen in abundance and are now
absent.
Divers tend to blame themselves for the progressive disappearance
of marine life, believing that the increasing numbers of divers is driving
the animals away.
But where do these animals go? Most often they go into the fish holds
of an aggressive fishing industry supplying a growing population who value
marine life only as
food. The great majority of this marine life is not driven away by
divers. It only appears that way because the marine life in an
area seems to decline
as
soon as divers begin exploring a site. But in nearly all cases fish
populations were already in dramatic decline, only no one was there
to witness it.
Our marine life is being swept from the ocean by the deadly technologies of
fishing. The
sport diving community has initiated numerous programs designed to
reduced diver impact on the environment while it largely ignores
the far greater impact
of
commercial fishing.
After three hours on the bottom watching a pair
of yellowhead jawfish doing absolutely nothing at all, Bob and
I gave up. I gently pushed the Nassau
grouper aside one
last time and prepared to ascend. Sue and Michele passed Bob and I
as we ascended and when I looked back at the wreck, I saw Michele taking photos
of the grouper.
She had already exposed a half dozen rolls of film on the fish, but
when the fish swam up to her lens, she simply couldn't resist another shot or
two.
On our last evening in the Caymans we celebrated the successful
end of our filming expedition at a beautiful Cayman Island diving
resort. They had
prepared a spectacular
buffet for the resort guests. A few minutes after Michele left the
table to be first in line at the buffet, I followed. As I approached the buffet
I found her
standing with an empty plate staring at the table. Featured at the
center the of the buffet was a twenty-five pound Nassau grouper, exquisitely
prepared and
surrounded by colorful garnishes. The fish probably cost the resort
fifty bucks. But by another calculation, it certainly cost much more.
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